Passage par le Chili : Atacama et Iquique

Pour rejoindre Irène dans le sud du Pérou et aussi éviter un trajet retour par la Bolivie (rappelons nous rapidement des temps de trajets …), nous décidons de couper par le Chili.

Puis faut aussi dire qu’il y a 2 ans, nous avions eu un véritable coup de coeur pour le désert d’Atacama, c’est donc pour nous un lieu familier et agréable, ce qui est très appréciable lorque l’on est depuis longtemps sur les routes !

Bref, on quitte le salar d’Uyuni qui nous a laissé de belles images en tête. Passage de la frontière terrestre qui annonce le changement entre la Bolivie et le Chili, un peu comme lorsqu’on franchit les limites de la Suisse, cela ressemble à la France et en même temps tout est différent.

On retrouve donc avec plaisir une belle route asphaltée pour rejoindre le petit village de San Pedro de Atacama.

San Pedro de Atacama et sa vallée de la Lune

Étape façon madeleine de Proust, on s’amuse au jeu des 7 erreurs, on profite un max de la petite boulangerie française (un vrai pain au chocolat, quelle émotion…), on se repose.

Comme on avait bien quadrillé le coin la dernière fois, bein on a pas grand chose à découvrir, sauf que l’on avait eu un regret tout de même que l’on va essayer de réparer, tant qu’à faire !

Un des principal spot (car très proche du village, et accessoirement très beau) est la vallée de la Luna. Etant victime de son succès, ce lieu est hyperfrequenté, d’autant plus que tous les tours partent à la même heure afin de finir par le coucher du soleil. Si vous voyez venir, nous n’avions pas réussi à profiter du lieu à sa juste valeur.

C’est donc par nos propre moyens, avant la foule que l’on part à l’assaut sous le soleil de ces paysages lunaires.
Enfourchez avec nous vos vélos, on vous y emmène. *

* on précisera que la photo a été prise bien avant le mouvement des gilets jaunes 😉

Petite exploration d’une caverne pour se mettre dans le bain, on peut admirer les détails creusés dans la roche par l’écoulement de l’eau.

Puis on atteint une immense dune (certains font même du surf des sables), on mouline dans ce sol instable, la montée n’est donc pas aussi facile qu’il n’y paraît. On est tout de même récompensé par les magnifiques paysages tout le long du parcours :).

Cerise sur le gâteau avec cette vue du bout du monde, le genre d’endroits où l’on se sent chanceux !

Ce petit tour nous a permis d’apprécier à notre rythme et beaucoup plus au calme ces merveilleux paysages, ça valait le coup de suer un peu.
Mais voilà La pause est courte et il nous faut déjà repartir sur les routes.

Pour ne pas perdre le rythme, on retrouve les trajets en bus, traversée du désert jusqu’à la mer (ce fameux accès volé aux boliviens pour rappel).

Et sans mentir en dehors de la ville d’Iquique (notre destination), voici l’unique type de paysage vu sur l’ensemble des trajets dans cette partie du Chili : le désert comme on l’imagine.

Iquique : entre mer et dunes

L’arrivée se fait de nuit, et je sais pas si il y a sort jeté, mais cela donne une impression surréaliste. Par contre depuis le bus, aucune photo n’a pu rendre (ne serait-ce qu’un peu) hommage à ce sentiment.

Ce sera donc (malheureusement pour vous) un peu de lecture supplémentaire.
Selon moi, la grande particularité de cette ville et sa topographie. Je m’explique, il y a la ville construite au bord de la mer, jusque là du classique, sauf qu’elle est coincée de l’autre côté par une immense dune de sable !
C’est donc depuis les hauteurs qu’on aborde Iquique, on l’aperçoit illuminée en contrebas et en contraste avec l’océan. Puis on descend progressivement pour découvrir cette immense colline de sable surplombant cette cité endormie.

À défaut d’avoir la version by night, petite tentative d’illustration de jour :

Impressionnant, non ?!? En tout cas c’est du jamais vu nous concernant.

L’arrivée dans la gare routière est un peu moins glamour et la première impression de la ville pas au top.
C’est donc une bonne surprise qui nous attend le lendemain dans le centre historique, qui est mignonnet, avec une belle artère piétonne, ainsi que son débouché sur une agréable odeur iodée.


La visite est brève car en réalité notre décision de cet arrêt, outre le fait qu’il se situe sur notre itinéraire pour le Pérou, est dûe à la ville fantôme d’Humberstone (à seulement quelques kilomètres).
Cette fois-ci ce n’est pas sur les traces de la ruée vers l’or mais vers la fabrication de salpêtre que l’on se dirige.

Certes cela est moins bling bling, mais très rentable à l’époque, et un changement radical de méthode d’approvisionnement mondial a rapidement mis au chômage une bonne partie de la production chilienne, laissant par conséquent ce lieu abandonné.

Pas de saloon à Humberstone mais une vraie vie tout de même : théatre, école, maison, usine, commerces que l’on tente d’imaginer à la grande époque.

En attendant c’est dans cette atmosphère résolument post-apocalyptique que l’on effectue notre visite.


Le lieu est bien préservé, l’ambiance sous ce soleil de plomb est véritablement présente.

De quoi clôtuter en beauté cette étape à Iquique décidemment surprenante !

Et comme les visites se suivent et ne se ressemblent pas, le prochain arrêt avant le Pérou ne nous a pas autant transporté. Il s’agit d’Arica, petite ville frontière et réputée pour ses plages sur lesquelles il fait bon surfer.
Nous décidons donc de dormir pour une fois loin du centre ville mais proche de l’accès aux vagues (et également des stations de bus qui plus est).
Sauf que lorsque la vision de la plage située derrière des grosses routes ne nous fait pas rêver, l’attrait du balnéaire en prend un coup !
Peut être que la fatigue n’a pas aidé et que le souvenir des plages australiennes et fidjiennes non plus. Heureusement, l’hôtel est chouette et la pause courte.

Tournons la page vers notre prochain pays, retrouvons Irène pour des périples péruviens au programme.

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